How to Make A Fairy House | Fun Beginner Wood Carving Projects

I'm having a lot of fun making fairy houses. Not sure I ever anticipated writing those words as a 34 year adult. 

Yesterday I put the finishing touches on my second fairy house (or gnome home, if you prefer). As I cut an acorn in half to create a miniature planter box, I couldn't help thinking to myself, This is not what I expected to be doing on a typical Wednesday morning. 

I glued the acorn to my piece of eucalyptus bark, below one of the cutout windows, filled it with dirt, and even found a teeny-tiny plant in the backyard to complete the scene. Fantastic! I don't think anybody else loves these little creations of mine as much as I do, but that didn't stop me from immediately sending out photos to all my family. Look what I made! 

I felt like a kid again.

This is a new hobby for me. I'm still a beginner. Nonetheless, I've learned a few things from my first two fairy homes. In this article I'll be walking you through the process of how to make a fairy house yourself. Its an easy beginner wood carving project for all ages. You can get as detailed as you want with these things - really, the ceiling is only limited by your own imagination and creativity (and what's available in your environment)! 

I started simple, and then was challenged by my girlfriend and her mom to add a few more accoutrements to the next one (hence the acorn planter boxes). Stick around and give this delightful little craft a try, you won't regret it!

What You'll Need

I used a couple whittling knives from Schaaf Tools 5pc Wood Carving Knife Set, along with the v-tool from their Pen Chisel Wood Carving Kit. Other than that, some glue, maybe some paint, and then the rest is what you forage - bark, wood scraps, acorns - wherever your imagination leads you.

I recommend using wood glue for porous surfaces like bark-to-bark connections, but use a non-toxic super glue (cyanoacrylate) for smoother materials like acorns or small decorative pieces where you need an instant bond. Whatever you choose, make sure it's non-toxic, especially if kids will be handling it or you plan on putting it back into nature.

Find the links to the wood carving tools I used here:

• Whittling knives 
• Pen chisels
• Tree bark (tips on what I learned about choosing the right bark later)
• Pencil
• Wood glue or non-toxic super glue
• Paint (optional)

Step 1 - Find Your Bark

One of my favorite parts of the process! It's time to scavenge for bark. It will definitely be your dog's favorite part of the process, if you happen to have one. Mia and I went to Douglas Preserve, where there are plenty of old trees and fallen trees. Head outside, take a nice deep breath of fresh air, and start your search. 

The bark you end us using will be primarily based on the trees in your area, but here are a few things I learned from carving the first two fairy houses. The first time I used bark from an old fallen oak tree. That is some thick, hard bark. Not impossible to work with, but certainly didn't do myself any favors. Luckily, Schaaf Tools whittling knives are sharp enough to get the job done (if I may plug my company, just for a moment). Even so, the next time around I opted for a piece of thinner bark that I found on the ground beneath an old eucalyptus. 

I really like how the oak house looks, but the eucalyptus was easier to work with. At the end of the day, it'll be personal preference, but if you want to set yourself up for success, try to find something that isn't too thick or too hard. Also, some pieces will be so dry that they either crumble or tear apart easily. These are no good either. Pick up the bark and flex it a little bit in your hands. It doesn't hurt to take a couple pieces back with you to experiment with. 

1. Keep in mind the bark thickness. Thicker, harder bark is going to be harder to carve!
2. Bark that is too old or dry can crumble or tear when you work with it
3. Take a couple different pieces home with you to test 

Step 2 - Mapping Out Your Fairy House

You've found a few pieces of bark. Now it's time to plan how you want your fairy house to look. I started simple - a door, a couple windows. Even simple can look pretty cool, in my opinion. With a pencil, draw the outlines of your door and windows, and whatever else you think you might want to add. 

I generally don't like putting time estimates on projects, because I think everyone works at a different pace, and it doesn't really matter for an artistic or creative project. I worked on these over the course of a week or so, doing a little bit each day. 

Step 3 - Begin Carving 

Here's where it'll be handy to have a few quality wood carving tools and whittling knives. I found that going over the pencil outline first with the pen chisel (I used the v-tool) to create little grooves, made it easier to cut out the door and windows with my whittling knife.

Don't rush. Go slowly. If you're anything like me, you might be accustomed to carving smooth, knot free basswood. This is going to be a little different. Lots of knots. Lots of inconsistency. But good, sharp whittling tools should be able to get the job done. 

Having trouble with a cut? Blade getting stuck? Take a breath, remove the knife blade from the wood, and try coming at it from another angle. Never try to force the knife, or chisel for that matter, through an area that isn't cutting. That approach can be dangerous, and can also mess up your tools. 

If your bark is too hard, you may have to try to use a chisel and a mallet for a little extra oomph, or get yourself some thinner bark. 

When carving your door and window details, pay attention to the wood grain direction. Carving with the grain (in the same direction the fibers run) will give you cleaner cuts, while carving against the grain (still doable with a sharp blade) can cause tear-out or splintering. 

A quick safety note, especially if you're carving with kids: always cut away from your body and keep your non-carving hand behind the blade. Work on a stable surface (never put the wood in your lap), and if you're new to carving, consider wearing a carving glove on your non-knife hand. Sharp tools are actually safer than dull ones - they require less force and are more predictable.

Tip - Save the pieces of wood you cut out for the doors and windows. You'll likely want to add them back in after (instead of just leaving door and window holes). You can also use the extra wood to frame your door and windows. 

Step 4 - Making Doors and Windows

You'll be surprised how even just a couple simple door and window holes begin to bring this piece of bark to life. Once you add more detail, things really start getting fun. The piece of wood you cut out form the door frame will become your door. You can carve some patterns into it and glue on a handle to make it more door-like before reattaching it to the frame. Adding thin strips around the door make it look really good as well. 

In my first fairy house, I cut little strips from the wood I had cut out to create the cross bars in each window (I just looked it up - these are called muntins or grilles - for those of you who are curious). 

In the second fairy house, I used the wood to frame the outside of the windows, but kept one cutout to glue back onto the window to make it look like it was left ajar. 

Experiment and have fun. You can't really go wrong here.

Step 5 - Adding Details

Honestly, even if you stop after step 4, you'll probably have a pretty sweet fairy house at this point. But if you've been bitten by the creativity bug, you may want to continue decking out your fairy house with additional, tiny accoutrements. How cute and clever can you get? A little deck? Over hangs? Planters?

As I mentioned above, I cut acorns in half, originally planning to turn them into overhangs for the windows, but turned them into little planter boxes below the windows instead. 

Step 6 - Finding the Perfect Place for Your Fairy House 

This is your dog's second favorite part, because they get to go outside again - unless you plan on keeping your fairy house at home, which is totally fine. But for me, I liked the idea of bringing my creation back to the park or trail where I originally found the bark. 

Stroll around and try to find a suitable tree to place your fairy house. A few tips from one beginner to another:  use what's around the tree to blend your fairy house into the environment. For my first oak fair house, I lined the bark with dirt and moss. It blended right in, and looked like an almost seamless part of the actual tree! For my second one, I tried using some of the fallen leaves and old bark around the eucalyptus to blend it in, but had less success making that one look natural. 

I found it easier to place your fairy home near the base of the tree, as opposed to tucking it into the tree midway up the trunk. There's definitely and art to this step, and I'm still learning the nuances!

Alright, there you have it - your complete guide to making fairy houses. What started as a whimsical experiment has become a hobby. There's something deeply satisfying about combining a bit of carving skill with whatever nature provides, and ending up with something that brings a smile to everyone who spots it on the trail.

Each fairy house teaches you something new. My third one is already taking shape in my mind, and I'm thinking about experimenting with a deck and a tiny fence.

If you end up making your own fairy house, I'd absolutely love to see it! Tag @schaaftools on Instagram or send us a photo - we're building a community of carvers who believe woodworking should be fun, creative, and accessible to everyone. Who knows, your creation might inspire someone else to pick up a knife and try something new.

Now get out there and make some magic. The fairies (and gnomes) are waiting for their new homes.

Happy carving!